Bound Buttonholes:

1. Determine buttonhole length. Add the measurement of the button plus an extra ¼” for ease. Always make a sample buttonhole to test button fit before completing the buttonholes on a garment.
2. Mark center and ends of each buttonhole with basting in contrasting thread, creating a thread ladder on garment front.
3. Pink a small rectangle patch of lightweight fusible interfacing. Fuse to wrong side over each buttonhole marking.
4. Cut a 2½” bias square for each buttonhole. Tug, and steam press to remove all stretch.
5. Center and baste the bias square on right side of garment over the buttonhole location.
6. Mark stitching lines on wrong side, 1/8” on each side of center line.
7. Stitch on marked lines, using 20 stitches per inch. Start and end stitching exactly at buttonhole markings. Leave 4” thread tails.
8. Check that stitching lines are ¼” apart and end exactly at markings. Tie thread tails but do not clip. Remove center basting and press square flat.
9. Cut across center of square from edge to edge, being careful not to cut garment.
10. Slash garment between stitching lines. Clip to, but not through corners. Apply liquid fray preventer to cut edges; test on scrap first.
11. Press top half of square down against stitching line; press bottom half up.
12. Turn square to wrong side; push triangles at ends to wrong side. Adjust lips to equal width, filling opening; press.
13. Tailor-baste lips together. Stitch in the ditch on both long sides of buttonhole, using a small backstitch.
14. Turn garment back on itself; stitch through base of triangle at each end of buttonhole, using a short stitch. Check right side. If necessary, stitch several times to secure triangle.
15. Trim the thread tails. Trim square, rounding off the corners. Press completed buttonhole on padded surface.
16. Finish back of buttonhole after facing is attached. Baste facing to garment around each buttonhole. Mark opening with pins; slash. Turn under; slipstitch, tucking raw edge of slit under as you sew.